Wiring Frames

If beeswax foundation is fitted into frames without adequate support, it will sag when the bees draw the wax into comb. In New Zealand, pre-wired beeswax foundation is not available, so most frames are 'wired' before putting foundation into them.

Using a Wiring Board to Wire a Frame

If you're going to be wiring many frames at all, a jig to hold the frame and help make the wire tighter is almost essential.

Diagram 1: A simple frame wiring jig

This drawing shows a four wire frame - most frames in use are, in fact, three wire. And they're a lot easier to wire, too!

Controlling the Reel of Wire

The reel of wire needs some way to control it so that it won't end up in a big snarl. The 'mousetrap spring' method is shown in the drawing, but you can also have a small block of wood with a very small hole in it that the wire goes through - it just keeps it from flying back and turning the reel into a mess...

Diagram 2: Another version of frame wiring jig

Holding the End Bars in Place While You Work

Probably the most important element in the jig is some means of 'tensioning' the end bars. It both holds the frame into place, but also puts some 'bow' on the end bars so that the wiring will be tighter when you are finished. The most effective models I've worked with use some sort of 'off centre cam' handle. The cam presses against the end bar, bending it in toward the middle of the frame slightly. The model in diagram 2 has a more sophisticated method - but I've seen good success with just stout nails in a workbench, fixed about 15mm less than the distance from end bar to end bar!

Both diagram 1 and 2 show small spools that the wire travels around. In practice, these are not necessary. When wiring a frame, the end is pushed through the first hole, then through the hole on the other end bar. With practice, you then learn to pull enough wire through to allow the other two passes across the frame. That means you don't have to have the spools and the associated complexity.

Tighting the Wires

The wire is fixed to the frame on both ends by using small tacks. The first tack, which would be fixed to the lower right edge if you were using the jig in the drawing, is tapped most of the way into the edge of the end bar. The wire is wrapped around about three times, then the tack tapped home with the hammer. The loose tail of wire, about 20 or 30 millimetres, should be bent back and forth to break it off tidy at the tack - those little tails can be a really painful experience in the field later!

Now, the tensioning... It is considered 'bad form' to use the reel of wire to tighten. I'll admit to doing it most of the time! As long as you're careful, the wire won't get pulled into the reel, leading to a snarl. Most frame wirers wear an old glove so they can pull the wire tight.

When you've pulled the wire carefully tight, putting on as much tension as you can, the wire at the point nearest the reel is wrapped around the second tack. Again, it has been tapped most of the way into the end bar. You've got to maintain constant tension on the wire as you wrap it around the tack - slip for a second and you'll have a loosely wire frame! Once more, bend the wire back and forth to break it off without a 'tail' to stab later...

Finishing Off!

When the off centre cam arrangement is loosened to allow you to remove the frame, tradition has it that you hold it near your ear to 'twang' each of the wires, like playing a Stradivarius. Other beekeepers working near you can tell by the tone whether you have wired it tightly enough!

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